Whats size nails do u use when doin molding around doors and baseboard? any other hints on 45's appreciated

When cutting the miters, lay a shim on the table of your saw. Place the trim in cut position on top of the shim raising it slightly. This will give you a true 45 with a slight backbevel making the miters easier to fit together. Around windows and doors, always glue the stock together using a good qualiyt carpenters wood glue. Use approximately a 3/16'; reveal. For windows choose a side to start from......measure inside from bottom to top, and add 3/16 for top and 3/16 for bottom....(3/8'; total added) cut and ';eyeball'; for even placement. Next, measure from install this piece (in place) to other side and add 3/16 (These are short point measurements) apply and repeat working your way around the window until complete. When nailing, do not nail close to the end until you have fit the next piece. Remember to glue, and take your time. Be patient, measure twice, and after you get a couple windows or doors behind you, it gets a bit better.


I have been trimming for 25 years, and I learn something every day, dont get frustratedWhats size nails do u use when doin molding around doors and baseboard? any other hints on 45's appreciated
depends on what thickness of molding you are using:


if you are using the old fashion, 3/4 '; molding, you will need to use at least #6's and you can use #8's. ALWAYS predrill the molding with a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail.





if you are using modern, (cheap), molding, it is usually only 3/8-1/2 '; thick. You might be able to get by with 4's for that.





45's are tricky. especially outside corners. practice makes perfect. don't assume, by the way, that the corner is a perfect 45. you will probably go through more wood than you expect.Whats size nails do u use when doin molding around doors and baseboard? any other hints on 45's appreciated
You can use either 16 gauge or 18 gauge finish nails in a nail gun. That way you do not end up with a hammer dent that has to be puttied up. They make them in battery operated as well as ones that work off a compressor.





Never assume that two walls meet at 90 degrees. It is best to measure the angle and find the actual angle. There are all sorts of tools for that, then one you have your angle right, take one half of it and cut it on a 10 inch miter saw - especially if you are going to finish it natural
Use 6d or 8d but usually 6d is the preferred size
6d into the framing and 4d into the door jambs..
I use nail guns for everything. If you have a finish nailer, I'd use 2-1/2'; 18-ga. for the base. For moldings and trim, I use my brad nailer with 1-1/2'; brads.





If you're going to pound 'em, I'd use 4d finish nails for the molding, and 6d's for the base. Don't do like a lot of guys I've seen and pick up the framing hammer! Use a good nail hammer with curved claw, and carry a nail set. Set each nail as you drive it, because if you do a ';go back and set 'em later'; trick, you'll invariably miss one or two, which you will find when you go to putty/caulk!
Size of nail is relative to the thickness of the wall. If you have 1/2'; sheetrock ontop of the 2x4 plus lets say 3/8'; of wood that the nailhead does not go thru.....3+4 is 7/8 that has not come in contact with the framed opening.


You want it in there at least 1/4';. So 1 1/2'; nails should be good. If you have plastered walls then the measure is a bit different, yes?





And you are looking for finishing nails if you are going to use a hammer and a nail set(to set the heats into the wood so filler can be put ontop to hide the nail hole.
They are called trim nails and come in different lengths. It will depend on the thickness of the trim so the nail can go through that and into the wall to hold securely.